I'm planning my first Raw Inventive 2.5 build and would appreciate some advice before I start ordering parts.

My intended machine size is relatively small, around 750 mm × 750 mm overall dimensions, and the primary use will be guitar building (acoustic + electric)

fretboard slotting

inlay work and rosettes

truss rod channels, maybe neck carving

body shaping + pickup cavities

templates, moulds and jigs

I do not expect to machine aluminium, at least not regularly. The machine will be used mostly for wood, hardwoods, plywood and occasional plastics.

I already own a complete NEMA23/TB6600/Mach3 electronics kit, so I plan to use that.

I have a few questions:

1. Ballscrews vs Timing Belts

For a machine of this size and intended use, would you still recommend ballscrews over timing belts?

I'm interested in good repeatability and accuracy for fret slotting and inlay work, but I'm not running a production shop and cutting forces will be relatively low.

For those who have used both systems, is there a noticeable real-world advantage to ballscrews for guitar work?

2. Makita Router vs VFD Spindle

I'm debating between a Makita trim router and a VFD spindle.

For fine work such as:

fretboard slotting

small inlays

detailed engraving

is the Makita's runout a practical limitation?

Would I actually notice a difference in accuracy or finish quality, or is the main benefit of a spindle reduced noise and smoother operation?

If you were building this machine today specifically for lutherie work, what would you choose?

3. Steel Plates vs Valchromat

The plans recommend steel plates, which I can order, but I already have a substantial amount of 19 mm Valchromat available.

Given the relatively small machine size (750 × 750), would 19 mm Valchromat be a reasonable alternative for:

gantry side plates

Z-axis plates

carriage plates

motor mounts

provided that it is properly sealed and reinforced where necessary?

Has anyone built a smaller Raw Inventive machine using Valchromat or another engineered wood product for structural plates?

If so, were there any issues with rigidity, long-term stability, or mounting rails and bearing blocks?

I'd love to hear opinions as well as feedback from anyone who has built a similar-sized machine.

Thanks in advance!

Saïan

Does it make a difference at all?

I found this Dutch page: https://proleantech-com.translate.goog/nl/v-slot-vs-t-slot-aluminum-extrusion/?_x_tr_sl=fr&_x_tr_tl=nl&_x_tr_hl=nl&_x_tr_pto=wapp
But I still don't get it.

regards
Henk Schouten

This should now be fixed, so members should be able to start new topics under the existing forum sections.

If you notice anything else that does not work as expected, please let me know. There is a lot to set up and organize right now, so small mistakes can happen while everything is being built.

Thanks for your patience and for helping improve the forum.

The plan is to publish the illustrations and drawings first, so members can start understanding the layout, components and mechanical setup. The full build video will come later.

This takes time because these are not simple machines. Even though the concept may look straightforward from the outside, there are many details that need to be correct: alignment, motor placement, gear reduction, rack positioning, tensioning, calibration and general assembly order.

Many of the parts used in the belt version will also be reused for the rack version. The frame, linear rails, motors, electronics and many general components are the same or very similar.

The parts that change are mainly related to the drive system. The rack version uses rack and pinion components instead of belts and idlers, and some of the steel plates are different between the versions.

To make this easier, we also have steel plates available on our website. Some of these plates are designed to be more universal between the different versions, which makes it easier to build or upgrade without starting completely from zero.

So in short: the rack version is coming, but it is not fully documented yet. I will release the illustrations first, and then the video will follow when it is ready.

This is currently the most finished version of the machine, and it is a good choice if you want to start building now without waiting for the other drive versions to be fully documented.

One important thing to know is that most of the parts used for the belt version will also be reused if you later want to change to one of the other versions. The frame, linear rails, many mechanical parts, motors, electronics and general hardware are the same or very similar.

The main parts that are different for the belt version are the idlers, a few screws and brackets, and of course the timing belt itself.

The steel plates, however, are different between the drive versions. So if you build the belt version and later want to convert to rack and pinion or ball screws, the plates will need to be changed.

To make this easier, we have also made steel plates available on our website. Some of these plates are designed to be more universal between the different versions, which makes it easier to upgrade or change the machine later without starting from zero.

So in short: the belt version is ready, it can be built now, and it is a good starting point for the Raw Creative platform

I am currently working on the video that will cover the electronics, control box and software setup. This is an important part of the machine, so I want to make it as clear and useful as possible instead of rushing it.

In the meantime, members on this site already have access to simpler drawings for an electrical control box. That control box is very similar to the one we are going to build in the video, and it uses the same main components.

So if you want to start planning the electronics, you can already look at those drawings and get a good understanding of how the box will be arranged.

More detailed videos, illustrations and setup information are on the way.