This forum is still new and may look a bit empty at the moment.
Please don’t hesitate to ask your questions. If you are building a Raw Creative 2.5, planning your build or wondering about parts, setup or assembly, feel free to start a topic.
I will do my best to answer questions and help as much as I can. As more builders join, the forum will grow into a useful place for tips, build discussions and shared experience.
I bought the kits to speed up the build, and I recommend them. Quality parts (some are on the cheap side but still good quality). You can see my finished box in the picture.
Just a few comments and questions @rawcnc:
1. The lid has several smole holes as addition to the fan hole. Why?
2. I am going to glue aluminium screens over all holes to prevent dust build-up.
3. I labelled all connectors, cables and parts. I recommend that to everyone.
4. I miss a document noting all steps with timing references to the video. It would make things easier.
5. Since several metal parts (corner aluminium profiles) are exposed, I added ground connectors to them. It is not strictly necessary, but adds extra safety. The unit runs on mains voltage after all.
6. When the estop breaker is mounted the correct way (countersunk side facing in), the holes for the angle brackets for the PSU come to close to the side panel and cannot be mounted.
6. The supplied cables have colors yellow/green, reddish brown, blue and black. Usage for yellow/green for anything but ground is usually not allowed/recommended but since this is a diy project it is not a problem. However, it's worth noting that if you in the future need to open the box and replace or add something this may become a risk for short-circuiting something.
7. In the machines you sell ready-made, there are handles mounted. Since that box has aluminium profiles that run alongside the longer sides, those handles cannot be mounted the same way on this box. But I would still like handles like those on mine to make handling easier.
Thank you for sharing this, and the control box looks excellent. Very clean work.
A few quick answers/comments:
- The small holes in the lid are mainly there so you can see the status LEDs on the stepper drivers without removing the lid.
- Adding aluminium mesh/screens over the holes sounds like a good idea, especially if the box is used in a dusty workshop.
- Labelling all connectors and cables is definitely recommended. It makes troubleshooting and future changes much easier.
- I agree about the step document with video time references. That is something I am working on, together with the illustrations and other documentation.
- Adding ground connections to exposed metal parts is also a good idea. This is similar to how we do it on the control boxes for our larger machines. It never hurts to be extra careful when mains voltage is involved.
- Yes, you are right about the angle brackets near the E-stop breaker. We noticed this as well, and in the video I only used two brackets in that area. This is something I will keep in mind for future revisions.
- Regarding the cable colours, you are right that yellow/green should normally only be used for ground. In this case, it was the cable colour we could get hold of at the time, but we are already looking for another option and will try to change this colour in future kits. Good cable marking is important, especially if someone opens the box later for changes or repairs.
- About handles: the boxes we use on our larger ready-made machines are made from 3 mm steel plate and can handle the side-mounted handles. This DIY box is a simpler and lighter design, so I am not fully sure I would mount the same type of handles on it without extra reinforcement.
Again, very nice work on the box, and thank you for taking the time to write such useful feedback.